Every startup needs or MUST HAVE whiteboards, it’s just how it goes. Whiteboards offer a great way to draw, post reminders, and explain things. I know at college I was always using whiteboards to help explain building websites and/or tech stuff. Installing a DIY whiteboard is a simple project that you could get done TODAY and/or any weekend. I found whiteboards very useful and wanted to setup some whiteboards on my walls in my apartment here in Arizona.
Well talking to a couple of people at the rails as well as the ruby meetup about whiteboards gave me some great tips and tricks that I wanted to blog about.
Most whiteboard that are 2ft by 2ft or so, cost about $10 to $20. If you want a HUGE whiteboard or wall to wall whiteboards it can get EXPENSIVE QUICKLY. Luckily there a simple solution, the fine people at Lowe’s sell this 1/8th White Tileboard for about $12.78 with tax for a 8ft by 4ft. (they can even cut to down to different sizes at the store!) This tileboard acts the same way as a whiteboard and is wicked cheap!
Being the entrepreneur that I am I wanted a whiteboard in my home office (my little startup). I used the OOK 30lb frame hangers for this project as well as for hanging all my frames on the wall. These are simply amazing, cheap, small, easy to install, and hardly noticable on a wall after removal. These work great on drywall and just need to get nailed in at a angle. I also use some hooks to hold my wine rack in the kitchen.
So here is the parts list for setting up a whiteboard in a home or office and not have to worry about it ripping out your wall or leaving huge holes.
1 30lb OOK Picture Hanging Hardware about $2 at Michaels or some hardware shop.
1 8ft x 4ft 1/8th White Tileboard about $12
1 drill or sharp knife
1 hammer (or rubber mallet)
a friend and possible a leveler
Okay, so some notes and tips, as you can see from the picture below, 4ft x 4ft is LARGE and it MIGHT not fit into your Del Sol, so be sure to either measure or plan a bit before picking up of the tileboard. I made 2 trips, 1 to Lowes and had them cut the 8ft x 4ft tileboard (whiteboard) down to 2 4ft x 4ft pieces. I was able to bend the board to fit into my Prius and then just pulled it out when I got home.
(*NOTE: Sorry for the lack of quality in the pictures, I have horrible lighting in my garage and apartment, but I feel that they help get some points across.)
I took the 1/8th tileboard and drill 2 holes (you can prolly cut them, its only 1/8th thick) where the OOK hooks would go. I placed the holes about 4 inches from each end as well as about 1 inch from the top. Once the holes were large enough, I fit the OOK hangers into the tileboard.
I then got a friend to hold the board where I could hammer in the small nails and leveled the board before putting in each nail. Once the tileboard is mounted, be sure to grab some
(*NOTE: I could not get a good picture of the whiteboard from how my room is setup, so although it looks like its at an angle is actually perfectly straight.)
Well I hope you are enjoying a nice whiteboard in your home or office and please comment about your setup or if you used other methods of hanging.
Printed Post It Notes
Oh, I forgot to give you another great tip. Make sure to pickup a bottle of Expo Cleaner, and make sure to give it a SOLID precleaning. Keeping a white board… white is hard, so be sure to put a solid layer or two of Expo Cleaning solution on before using it daily.
I’ve been a big fan of the write board cling sheets. They are a bit pricier, but you can put them almost anywhere (i.e. you can turn your desk into a whiteboard), and it’s super easy to expand the amount of write-space.
My new architectural office…under construction…will have a custom framed 4′ x 8′ whiteboard ‘idea and thinking’ wall. Your approach sounds great, especially the cost. Two questions: You referred to the material as both “titleboard” and “tileboard”. Which is correct? Do ink images remain after erasing? Thanks, Denis
Hey, Thanks for comment, its TileBoard. (I just went back and fix that, thanks!). I would HIGHLY suggest bring a expo marker and make sure and it should be easily removed with just a swipe of the thumb.
As long as you use a “dry erase marker” you should be fine. I HIGHLY suggest picking up a large bottle of Expo cleaner and windex and doing a “preclean” before heavy use. I also suggest cleaning the boards (back to white) at least once a week, to keep from colors “permanent sticking”.
Let me know how it goes, post/blog about it or post a comment/link of pic of the office. Enjoy!
I have been happily writing on all types of GLASS surfaces with whiteboard pens, for years.
The best one is to keep a whiteboard pen in the car so when you get a call while you’re driving, you just pick up the whiteboard pen and let loose on your windscreen or even the side window. Much easier than trying to find both a pen and a piece of paper to scribble notes on.
Based on that, you could just hang a sheet of glass on your wall, or even a cheap sheet of perspex if you want. Use that as a whiteboard.
Does anyone have a recipe for homemade tileboard cleaning solution? I’m wondering if the Expo cleaner and Windex are the most appropriate for the surface. I’m also wondering if I couldn’t make a good solution myself, more inexpensively. Carol
We just installed these in three offices at Arizona State Univ. We saved the dept hundreds over buying conventional white boards. Another tip, next to the TileBoard at HomeDepot you can find platic end caps for about $2.50 per 8ft. You need three to frame out a 4×8 board. It makes the installation look much nicer. To keep the board from rattling too much we anchored the board directly to the wall with drywall anchors, about 10 anchors for the large ones. We plan to add plastic screw caps that should finish the job and make it look very nice. We’ve also found that high quality markers clean up much nicer than the dollar store variety. As the author noted, be sure to bring a marker with you to the store, the first piece of tileboard i got had a flat finish instead of the glossy finish and did not work once I got it home.
Thanks for these instructions John. I just installed my new white board and I’m very happy with it. Total cost: about $15 plus $20 for a nice marker/eraser/cleaner set. You can see the final result here:
http://www.pajamamarket.com/pajama_market_small_busin/2008/04/my-office.html
I installed the white board by myself and while it can be done, I recommend you have someone there to help you.
I also ignored some of the directions and I wish I hadn’t. I placed the hangers in the wall FIRST instead of having the hangers and the white board together like you recommend. My holes were drilled 1.5 inches from the top of the white board, so when it came time to hang the board on the hangers, it was quite awkward. In fact, I couldn’t do it. The reason for this is because the board wasn’t exactly flat, it has a curve to it which makes the proper angle to hang it impossible to get.
My solution was to take a hammer and bend the hooks of the hangers so that they were 90 degrees to the wall. I then slipped the white board through the hangers and hammered the hooks back to their original angle once they were through the drill holes. I’m sure this marked the wall a little, but for now I can’t see it and the white board looks great.
I agree that the ook 30# hangers are the bomb.
Cheers!
I’d prefer reading in my native language, because my knowledge of your languange is no so well. But it was interesting! Look for some my links:
[...] This guy has a very short list of materials and a simple design. I’d personally cap off the ends and do more of a direct attachment to the wall instead of a hanging fixture, but definitely a simple idea. [...]
Here in NY I’ve literally been looking for that material for years with no luck. It hasn’t been in any Lowes or Home Depot in the past 5 years here.
HELP!
Is this gonna end someday??
[...] This guy has a very short list of materials and a simple design. I’d personally cap off the ends and do more of a direct attachment to the wall instead of a hanging fixture, but definitely a simple idea. [...]
Priveet!! Medveed!!!
[...] of these DIY whiteboards: http://lifehacker.com/software/whiteboard/diy-dry-erase-board-171564.php http://www.johnmurch.com/2007/10/20/diy-whiteboard-on-the-cheap/ [...]
[...] moved in and our productivity increased noticibly. We filled the walls with tile board or what I call poor man’s whiteboards and our brainstorm sessions were much better. We spent less time sending documents back and forth [...]
[...] they’re available at Home Depot and many other large home/office improvement stores. Check out this article describing the [...]
And thisis why I love http://www.johnmurch.com. Killer posts.
[...] This guy has a very short list of materials and a simple design. I’d personally cap off the ends and do more of a direct attachment to the wall instead of a hanging fixture, but definitely a simple idea. [...]
I have to say, every time I come to http://www.onlinedegree.net you have another fascinating article up to read. A friend of mine was talking to me about this topic a couple weeks ago. I think I’ll e-mail them the url here and see what they say.
[...] They created the space using old doors for the reception desk, hardiplank for walls and $10 tileboard for oversized whiteboards from HomeDepot, $7 lightbulbs from Ikea hung en masse from the ceiling. They took a dollar and [...]
I almost paid $300+ dollars at Office Depot today for a white board. Just started my company solarfy.com and trying to keep costs down. I wanted a white board for my home office and decided to take a look on Craigslist. Didnt find much so I just about left for OfficeDepot when I found your article. It cost me less then $30.00 I did what Charlie said in the previous post on framing it and it works great. Thanks to this article I saved $270.00
Thank you again!
[...] Reference: http://www.johnmurch.com/2007/10/20/diy-whiteboard-on-the-cheap/ [...]
Love it! Thank you!
I have an awesome idea for a dry erase board that is more functional than you would think it to be. It is super strong!!! It is not only good for writing on. You can also do acrobatics and stunts off of it!! No kidding. You can also call these things acroboards if you want. The Hebrew name for it is Mizbe’ach Ha Rikud which means “Altar of the Dance” I created a dance concept that centers around it. It is just like the one in my high school with one of those big solid wood frames on it. I fell in love with the ones in my high school and I decided to come up with a way to build for home because I just loved them. Sadly, I haven’t been able to build a big one yet because no room in my house is big enough for it!!! Here is how you would build it. I repeat: This is only for serious geeks and dancers/tricksters out there who have a big enough room in their house and want a multifunctional space. A basement that has a wall with no windows on one side is the best place for it. You got to have a haert for it. You need:
12 2X4X10? planks
4 1X4X10? planks (for the barre thing)
2 White tileboard panels
2 4?X4? cork panels (for the ends or “wings”)
A whole lot of .75? quarter round or stop moulding for the inside of the frame; this is what holds the panels in the main frame.
4? hex bolt screws for mounting it
1.25? X.25?and .75?X.25? flat moulding (for the barre thing)
Gorilla Glue
Wood Finish and wax or polyurethane
42” oriental spanner piece for the middle (this holds the two whiteboard panels together)
How to build it:
1. Take one 2X4, measure it at 8? and make forty five degree angles on both ends pointing towards each other like this: / \
2. Take another 2X4, measure it at 8? and make forty five degree angles on each end going parallel like this: / /
3. Do this for the bottom two pieces and the top two pieces.
4. Take two 2X4’s, measure them at 4? and make forty five degree angles on both ends pointing towards each other like this: / \ These are the side pieces.
5. Now for something challenging. Take one 2X4, measure it at 42” and cut it straight down the middle on its big side. These two pieces will function as the interior posts between the whiteboard panels and the wings.
6. Take four 2X4’s, measure them at 4’ and make forty five degree angles on both ends going parallel like this \ \ These make up the wings of the board.
7. Take a 1X4, measure it at 4’ on each end and make a forty five degree angle one only one end like this\ These two pieces go on the wing pieces.
8. Take the two 4’ 2X4 pieces used for the base (That is the bottom of the board) and the two 4’ 1X4 pieces, line up the 1X4 with the angle on the 2X4 so that they meet flush together forming one angle like this \ Measure .5” out from the back of the 2X4 so that there is a .5” gap. This is so the wing boards can fit into the frame. Put some gorilla glue in between the two pieces and let it dry for about 12 hours. Do this for the other 1X4 and 2X4 piece. Now you have the two wing pieces for the base of the board complete.
9. Take one 1X4, measure it at 8’ and make forty five degree angles on each end like this / \ Take another 1X4 measure it at 8’ and make forty five degree angles on each end like this / / These pieces are similar to the 2X4 pieces.
10. Take the first set of 8’ 2X4 pieces (make sure that the angles interlock in the middle forming angles on each end like this: / \ The angle in the middle should be like this /) This will be the main base of the board.
11. Take the 1X4 and the 2X4 with angles like this / \ and line them up so that they form to flush angles like this / \ Measure .5 inches at the back of the 2X4. There should now be a .5’ gap. This is to hold the whiteboard panels in the frame. Put some gorilla glue between the two pieces and let it dry for about 12 hours. Do this for the other two pieces with angles like this / / Now you have the main base of the board complete.
12. Now for some challenge. Take all of the top pieces (make sure that the angles interlock together all the way across with angles on each end like this \ / Measure .5” all the way down the top on the inside of the frame. Take the .75” stop moulding and measure four pieces to match the angles of all of the top pieces. Affix this to each of the top pieces with some gorilla glue and let it dry for about 12 hours. Now the top pieces of the board are complete.
13. Take the two side pieces with angles like this / \ and measure .5” on the inside of the frame. Take the .75” stop moulding and measure it to the inside of the frame. Make forty five degree angles on each end that match the angles of the two side pieces. Affix these to the two side pieces with some gorilla glue and let it dry for 12 hours. Now you have the side pieces of the board complete.
14. Take the two 42” interior 2×4 pieces (the small ones) and measure .5” on both sides of each of the 2X4 pieces. Take the .75” stop moulding and measure it to fit the pieces for both sides. There should be four pieces of stop moulding here. Affix them to each side of the 2X4 pieces with some gorilla glue and let them dry for 12 hours. Now you have the interior pieces of the board complete.
15. Now take the base pieces that have the barre mounted on them. Take the 1.25”X.25” flat moulding and measure it to fit each of the base pieces. The angles on them need to match up with the angles of the base pieces. You may wish to make angles on the ends of the pieces on the wings like this / \ Line each of these four pieces up at the back of the barre. Affix the pieces to the barre with gorilla glue and let them dry for 12 hours.
16. Take the .75”X.25” flat moulding and measure it to fit each of the four base pieces. The angles on them should match the angles of the four base pieces. You may wish to make forty five degree angles on the pieces with the wings like this / \ Line each of the four pieces up at the front of the barre. Affix the pieces to the barre with gorilla glue and let them dry for 12 hours.
17. Take a piece of the 1.25”X.25” flat moulding and measure it to fit the sides of the barre. You may wish to make angles on the ends of the pieces like this / \ Affix these pieces to the barre with gorilla glue and let them dry for 12 hours. Now you have the first part of the barre complete.
18. Line the base pieces up again so that the angles interlock together. Take the .75” stop moulding and measure to fit the base pieces. The angles on them should match the angles of the base pieces. Take these four pieces and line them up at the back of the barre. Affix them to the barre with some gorilla glue and let them dry for 12 hours. Now you should have the entire frame of the board complete.
19. Now all that is left is to stain and finish the board.
Mounting the Board
This is a challenging and tedious thing to do. The best thing to do here is assemble the frame of the board together on the ground. Then measure around the frame starting with a mark at the edge of the base 16” You will need to measure and make marks every 16” this is house standard. A mark has to be on the angle break, skip it and measure another 16” Do this all the way around the frame including the side pieces and the interior pieces.
Now you will need to measure on the wall every 16” to account for the mounting holes on the board. Mount up the board with the 4” hex bolts. As you mount up the frame set the whiteboard panels in the frame, brace them with the interior pieces and put the wing boards up. Then put up the side pieces followed by the top. You will need more than one person to do this. If the side pieces or interior pieces don’t fit up like the rest of the frame, you may wish to put the pieces together with magnetic tape or paint. A more permanent though not recommended solution would be to apply glue to the corners of the side pieces and the ends of the interior pieces. Do not do this if you want the board to remain portable. You may wish to put some wood plugs in the holes where the hex bolts. Put the 42” spanner piece in the middle of the board and there you have it. You are ready to take a spin on it. Have some fun. See what you can do on the thing
If you want to see what the board will look like, take a look at this. This is from my school.
http://www.kernersvillenc.com/gallery/Education-Grant-Presentations/2005_education_grant_163
It will look exactly like this when it is complete and mounted up. Pretty nice ehh? This is not for anyone who just wants something simple. This takes some time to build. It is super sturdy when it is mounted up. It is built for play and action. It is very pretty for those who like the vintage look and feel.
Some extra things you can put on it are a map track and a theatre curtain for added appeal.
Instead of the hangers I just used drywall screws into the studs to hang the tile board.
Seems to be working out just fine.
[...] they’re available at Home Depot and many other large home/office improvement stores. Check out this article describing the [...]
Someone asked if there is something other that Expo solution to clean a whiteboard, I use plain old Alcohol, it works great and is super cheap. You can get it at the dollar store.
Another idea for hanging your whiteboard is to use the L shaped mirror mounts, your can place them on top, bottom and both sides, simple.
this is a great alternative. our start-up bought three 8×4 boards and set them up around the office for about $70 total. we ended up drilling it into the wall with drywall anchors.
the only thing this does not mention is how it does not lay flat onto the wall. with hangers like the one used above it may be even worst. this can be annoying when writing and or very visually unappealing. our solution was to use 5lb rated industrial double sided tape ($15 at home depot). lay strips onto all 4 sides before aligning it and drilling. little tricky but when done right it sticks like a beast and looks really good. dont want to think about when we have to remove it. might be an ugly scene but for now, live a little.
Thank you! Extra pleased with the pic of your car. I was just wondering if they’d fit in my new Prius!
Yep, I love this simple effective idea. Business depot/Satples here in Canada want $80-$300 for a whiteboard. What do i look like money coming out of my ass?
or it better come with sexy cashier included.